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Hospices de Beaune

Hospices de Beaune Vintage 2023: quality first!

Report and analysis of the 2023 vintage by Albert Bichot

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Each year is different from the previous one and at Albert Bichot we try to carefully analyze the specific conditions of the year in order to make relevant recommendations to our customers in their Hospice purchases. Which makes sense as the first buyer at the Hospices de Beaune for over 25 years!

It is always instructive to put into perspective the work of Ludivine Griveau who presents only a few weeks after the harvest a significant number of vintages with the vinifications that we ourselves carried out in our Domaines. Here are below our feelings at the end of the tastings that we carried out with great pleasure, in a moment of sincere exchange between Ludivine Griveau and our technical teams (Alain Serveau, Mathieu Mangenot and Cyrille Jacquelin)

The white wines from Hospices de Beaune 2023: Amplitude – Balance – Expressivity

Despite their “solar” opulence which reflects the last part of the climatic conditions of the 2023 vintage, we greatly appreciate the freshness of all the wines that we have tasted. This quality demonstrates judicious choices for three key parameters: carefully controlled yields, optimal harvest dates and finely controlled vinification.

At this stage, we consider that the crucial aging stage in our cellars will aim at magnifying this balance between freshness and intensity. We will be keen to ensure that we maintain the uniqueness of each terroir, which is already expressed today. In this sense, and faithful to our know-how in aging Hospices wines since 1876, we will adapt the origins, toasting, grains and age of each barrel.

This is also a reflection and a practice that we successfully carry out for our own Albert Bichot wines, in the context of global warming and the challenges it poses for preserving the inimitable style of the great Burgundy wines. The white wines of the Hospices de Beaune 2023 greatly deserve this rigor and attention on our part.

The red wines from Hospices de Beaune 2023: Susbstance – Precision – Length

We particularly appreciated the remarkable quality of the work of Ludivine Griveau and her teams in this delicate vintage despite (or because of) its generosity. In the vineyard as well as on the sorting tables, she controlled the yields in a very insightful manner, to keep only the very best grapes, without defects or excess maturity, in order to preserve the purity of the aromas and the faithful expression of each climat for which she is responsible.

The result is very attractive red wines already in their youth, with very fresh aromas, evidence of beautiful vinification with careful extraction of material. With this technical mastery and these excellent qualitative bases on all the vintages, we are already in an excellent position to mature these great wines in our cellars and bring them to the peak of their potential.

Buying, as is often the case, many barrels of the same wine will once again be a real asset in bringing complexity and subtlety to these great Burgundy wines, these “great wines for a great cause” as we often say. Just as for the 2023 white wines, maintaining freshness and delicately polishing the tannins to preserve this lovely fruit of the vintage will be our guideline.

We would also like to point out that for the white wines as for the red wines of the Hospices de Beaune, the aging at Albert Bichot will be carried out in compliance with the specifications governing organic viticulture. This year also marks the 3rd and final year of conversion of the Domaine des Hospices, before probable certification for the 2024 vintage. Here again, we can rely on our long Albert Bichot experience in this area, our estates themselves having been organic certified since a long time.

Video interview: vintage 2023 overview, vinification choices and challenges, wines’ style : Ludivine Griveau shares with us all you need to know before the Hospices auction.

Interview date: Ocotber 23d, 2023

October 23, 2023. One month before the 163rd Hospices de Beaune auction, Ludivine Griveau welcomes Jean-David Camus from Maison Albert Bichot, the first buyer of the famous charity sale for more than 25 years. This moments gives the opportunity for Ludivine Griveau to review the conditions of the 2023 vintage, her choices for white and red vinifications, then to present the main appellations and vintages which will be sold at auction on November 19, 2023 in Beaune.

She then tells us about the famous charity barrel, also known as the Presidents’ Barrel, which will be sold this year for the benefit of 2 associations supporting the cause of aging well: an exceptional cask of Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru presented in an splendid oak barrel, made from the same wood as that used to reconstruct the spire of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.

Finally, she discusses the future projects of the Hospices estate, including replantings and the arrival of new vineryards and hence cuvées in the coming years.

Do you want to participate to the next Hospices de Beaune wine auction? It’s easy! Albert Bichot offers amateurs and professionals from all over the world the opportunity to purchase these “great wines for a great cause”, from a bottle to a full barrel.

Video interview: Last day of harvest! Ludivine Griveau shares with us the details of the 2023 vintage conditions at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune.

Interview date: 19th of September 2023, last day of harvest at Domaine des Hospices de Beaune

The 2023 vintage began with an extremely mild winter and very little rain, so there was a clear water deficit until February. This situation was reversed in the spring and the vines never ran out of water thanks to the claylimestone soils, which capture and store water.

The storms that followed had a significant impact, particularly on 11 July over a fairly narrow area, which saved the vineyards from disaster. After that, things were fairly calm until the heatwave in September, which I would describe as a climatic hazard.

As a result, all these climatic factors meant that our decisions in the vineyards were not linear. Very quickly, the quantity was such that we thought we’d have a harvest close to 2022, but the diverse rainfall, water conditions and the context of the weather meant that the growth of the vines was very slow. The vines were irregular within the same plot or from one plot to another. 2023 should therefore be singled out for its highly diverse nature.
The 2023 harvest, which began on 6 September in Pouilly-Fuissé and finished on 19 September in Saint Romain and Monthelie, was meticulously sorted both in the vineyards and in the winery to ensure that the quality of the grapes met the estate’s high standards. The focus was firmly on quality rather than quantity.

At present, the vinification is going very well, with the whites fermenting efficiently and a fairly severe settling to remove the lees, which were not of sufficient quality. The juices are fairly clear and are fermenting as usual in barrels on the basis of a whole, uncrushed harvest. The whites can be described as very pure aromatically, with good body, quite voluptuous on the palate, and good levels of acidity.

The 100% de-stemmed reds are already showing lovely colour and polyphenolic richness. They are in vats for two to three weeks of maceration. They seem round and fruity, and the tannins derived from the pips and skins are likely to be silky and round. The smell of red fruit is already wafting through the winery.

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